Roma . . . una vita, non est basta!

Roma, the Eternal City, is one of our world's most fascinating places. Converging on this ancient city are history, art, religion, architecture, style, music, cuisine, wine and more as well as a certain unequaled lifestyle and joie d'vivre. Never in an entire lifetime can you see all of Rome, smelled, tasted, heard and enjoyed. Take as much as you can and revel in it. So many great restaurants, so little time!

Hotel Eden La Terrazza

Via Ludovisi 49,

Roma RM, Italy

Once great, now after years of indifference, Eden has regained its lust. It is a Michelin one-star and absolutely deserving. The view, the setting, the service and the cuisine are all world class. We indulged in white truffle risotto, which was more than worth the cost! Memorable to say the least. Ask to be seated at a window seat. The hotel is positively first class and hosts Heads of State, Royalty and the glitterati of the world. Map & Info: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Tk8tpeJVRVtDbrHx7

Casa Coppelle

Piazza delle Coppelle, 49,

Roma RM, Italy

This splendid dining destination has a Michelin star. It is cozy and chic, with many intimate and comfortable small rooms. World-class cuisine. At our last visit, we had after-dinner drinks with new friends at the adjoining table. The fascinating lady was the granddaughter of Benito Mussolini! Map & Info: https://maps.app.goo.gl/V2JzHHvWizHbNWs26

Tullio Ristorante

Via di S. Nicola da Tolentino, 26,

Roma RM, Italy

I am especially fond of this wonderful dining place, which is on a side street infrequently visited by tourists. I was introduced by my Roman tailors in 1973. Then my friends—Sig. Van Dyke, men's tailor honored by the Italian government, and Sig. Savini Brioni, founder of Brioni, the men's clothing company of sartorial fame—regularly went to Tullio for lunch! Brioni had a permanently reserved corner table. A taste of Pasta in Heaven! If in season, splurge and have the white truffle pasta! To hell with the cost, full speed ahead. You will dream about it for years! There will be no regrets! A favorite lunch spot. Patrons are mostly locals and few tourists. We were seated just across from the prime minister and his staff on our last visit. Whoopee! Map & Info: https://maps.app.goo.gl/BgczqS867jmhW2DJ7

Harry's Bar

Via Vittorio Veneto, 150, 00187,

Roma RM, Italy

For super special occasions, we love Harry's Bar on Via Veneto. Super elegant, very small, attracting the glitterati of Roma and the international crowd. Lunch of a classic pasta or an afternoon Negroni cocktail on the sidewalk is always entertaining. For an extraordinary evening supper, reservations are essential (near piano and female vocalist). Don’t go too early to dine. Dress up. You will be more likely to dine near an Italian film director than someone from Podunk. Elegant, refined and understandably favored by the in-crowd. I could go almost every night! Harry’s was a hangout for Sinatra. Alas, our last visit was disappointing. A new chef lacked the style and panache of the former, and a new head waiter was somewhat lacking. Nonetheless, it is worth a visit just to savor the history. Map & Info: https://maps.app.goo.gl/7AyaodQ9McwHj9hD8

Ristorante Nino

Via Borgognona, 11, 00187,

Roma RM, Italy

Nino is located just off the Spanish Steps, street parallel to Via Condotti, about two streets to the left, facing away from the Steps, closer to the actual Spanish Embassy. One of my favorite dining places in the Eternal City, Nino is not fancy and very old fashioned. It appears circa 1935 when it opened with Mussolini in power! Reservations are essential. Ask or beg to sit near the front (tourists are typically in a back room.) Probably the best cannelloni ever. Sharing one order is almost too much! All the classic pasta is phenomenal, and the steak was marvelous. House wine is fine. The old, experienced waiters shuffle around in white jackets, carrying steaming plates of gnocchi and savory beef tartar and Tuscan white beans. Everything is consistently excellent! The lady who sits in the middle of the restaurant with the cash register is the owner Violet, a nice lady—speak to her. Map & Info: https://maps.app.goo.gl/EuGGjvnu2Sb2Rn4G9

Trattoria al Moro

Vicolo delle Bollette, 13, 00187,

Roma RM, Italy

I adore Al Moro, located a coin's throw from the Trevi Fountain (13 Vicolo delle Bollette). Popular with Italian politicians and successful businessmen (taking long lunches and smoking cigars in the back room). Reservations are recommended, walls dark paneled, menu traditional, waiters sometimes grumpy and food incredible—magnificent old-school Roma! Map & Info: https://maps.app.goo.gl/KogJsDwQHz8wcj4r8

La Pergola

Via Alberto Cadlolo 101, 00136,

Roma RM, Italy

We have dined at the Michelin three-star La Pergola several times. It is magnificent but tends to be more avant garde in cooking and is frightfully expensive. Neither for families nor the faint of heart and pocketbook. The same goes for Imago, the rooftop restaurant at the Hassler. It is "modern." Iris calls it "tweezer food" for the iddy-biddy portions artistically arranged on the many tasting portions. Not very Roman! We occasionally go to the Hassler's downstairs garden and enjoy a preprandial cocktail, wonderful hors d'oeuvres and take pleasure in the piano music as well as the superlative attention from the Maitre'D. Map & Info: https://maps.app.goo.gl/hfEPWb4MA6suCB636

Al Vero Girarrosto Toscano

Via Campania, 29, 00187,

Roma RM, Italy

If you are having withdrawal symptoms from lack of beef steak, try Girarrosto Tuscano, just off the Via Veneto. The Chianina beef steak is magnificent, charred over wood trimmed from the grape vines from vineyards in Tuscany (bistecca all fiorentina). Map & Info: https://maps.app.goo.gl/BWQqNep6gHbb4z9u8

La Campana

18 Vicolo della Campana,

Roma RM, Italy

Campana claims to be the oldest restaurant in Roma. It is eternally packed with well-dressed Italian families. Excellent and classic food. Map & Info: https://maps.app.goo.gl/AL1ob5NP5df4qniC9

Mirabelle @ Hotel Splendide

Royal Via Di Porta Pincians, 14,

Roma RM, Italy

The restaurant is on the rooftop of a 5-star hotel (1-5 govt. scale) just off Via Veneto overlooking the park. Ask for a window table on temperate evenings; service will be al fresco on a large balcony. Romantic piano music, definitely a dress-up, special occasion evening. Map & Info: https://maps.app.goo.gl/kJ6pA3SVqDdtvCmV8

Hotel Gregoriana

Via Gregoriana 18, 000187,

Roma RM, Italy

Tranquil, affordable and perfectly situated in the heart of The Eternal City, this is a wonderful small hotel. It is near the top of the Spanish Steps in walking distance of the principal luxury shopping area and many famous sites. Without a bar or restaurant, a stay at Hotel Gregoriana includes breakfast. Almost across the street is the timeless and magnificent Hassler Hotel, a legendary and welcoming 5-star (1-5 govt. scale) luxury hotel famous for dining. The Michelin one-star rooftop restaurant Imago has breathtaking views and modern cuisine. The Palm Court has piano music at cocktail time and splendid light fare. Consider a stop for a Negroni cocktail before going on to dinner! Map & Info: https://maps.app.goo.gl/hh2ifAQpnejS5cxp7

Hotel d' Inghilterra

Via Bocca di Leone 14, 00187,

Roma RM, Italy

Mark Twain, Elizabeth Taylor, kings and popes have stayed at this elegant and legendary 19th-century palazzo. Its location near the foot of the Spanish Steps in the center of fashion shopping is without parallel. The interiors of the rooms and suites are glamorous, resplendent with oak, silk, marble and antique furniture. The Cafe Romano Lounge Bar is especially cozy, dark wood paneled with leather banquettes. Dining is excellent in the charming restaurant and particularly enjoyable at lunch at a street-side table with a nonstop parade of shoppers for visual entertainment. The rooftop bar is ideal for a pre-dinner aperitif, maybe a Campari Soda, with stunning views of the seven hills of Roma. The tariff is in keeping with the elegance. You will have great lifetime memories long after the bill has been paid! Map & Info: https://maps.app.goo.gl/N6RWJ3qnS4nzfaXm9